AUSTRIA
Once over the Arlberg Pass, my cycling through Austria was spectacular, owing to the fact I kept rivers as close company. I picked up the Inn River in Landeck, the Salzach River near Lofer, then followed the mighty Danube (Donau) into Vienna. The paths that border flowing water are level, scenic and smooth and were a massive part of why Austria was so unexpectedly enjoyable & memorable.
My usual accommodations were wild camping in fields, on riverbanks and benches on the outskirts of farmers fields. The many red & white 'Zimmer Frei' (room for rent) signs were welcome symbols of coziness with Frühstück (breakfast) included.
Loved this country. Grüß Gott \m/
Arlberg Pass
Upon leaving Liechtenstein, I entered Austria without quite knowing that I was embarking on the toughest day of cycling in my life. My ride took me up the western flank of the Arlberg Pass where it wound and curved on a steady ascent to a scenic lookout at its peak of 1,793 m (5,883 ft).
On my way up, a lady pulled over in her tiny car and handed me an apple. In her broken English (which was way better than my non-existent Tyrolean German) she told me that she owned a small B&B in St. Anton on the other side of the mountain I was now cycling. She'd welcome me for the price of 5 euros including breakfast. What a deal. "I'll be there," I gasped.
The entire climb was about 6 grueling hours. After a ride like that, you feel close to death in a depleted kind of way. That night's sleep was more than rest; it was the deepest of slumbers.
Innsbruck
Beautiful town on the banks of the Inn River. Just my speed of not-too-huge to overwhelm, but not to small as to be boring. Must sees were the golden roofed 'Goldenes Dachl' on Maria Theresian street, Triumphforte, St. Jacob's Cathedral and Kaiserliche Hofburg.
Salzburg
Since 696 the Austrian city of Salzburg has flourished on the shores of the Salzach river. The historic city center is UNESCO world heritage site prominent with Baroque architecture as well as being the birthplace of 18th century composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.
The August evenings were beautifully mild with open air theatre projected on the cathedral walls as Festung Hohensalzburg (high Salzburg fortress) presided over the bustle in the main square. I could have easily spent a week here, although daily showings of 'The Sound of Music' at the hostel was a bit much.
Still, what a fantastic city.
Eisriesenwelt
A day trip from Salzburg brought me to the Eisriesenwelt Höhle (translating to 'World of the Ice Giants') that loomed over the small market town of Werfen.
Approaching the gaping hole in the mountainside felt like entering a dragon's keep. Extending more than 42 km's into the mountain, the ice cave system is the world's largest.
Melk Abbey (Stift Melk)
A Benedictine abbey above the town of Melk. Taking 34 years to build (finished in 1736) the abbey has fresco paintings, medieval and musical manuscripts and a vast library.
Cool how some of the rooms were backlit in neon colours. The abbey contains the tomb of a saint and remains of some of Austria's first ruling dynasty.
Vienna
A few days in Vienna were spent wandering on foot checking out the gaudy, ornate sarcophigii of the Kaisergruft, memorabilia of the Sigmud Freud museum, Stephansdom Cathedral and the Hofburg Imperial Palace and of course, plentiful drinks at the bar of Wombats hostel. And why not some trampolining?
For me, the city recalled some music of 80's Austrian pop outfit Falco 3 with 'Rock Me Amadeus' and 'Vienna Calling'. The Austrian capital was a stellar time for me, much as this entire country was. As one famous Austrian once declared, "I'll be back..."
